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SECOND TRIP WITH TOTALLY SPAIN We used them back in 2007 for a Spain trip, and then in 2023 for Portugal. Belen is extremely detail oriented and responsive, and took the time to get clear on what it was we were looking for. In addition to managing...

Eric Kelly, San Rafael CA, USA
2023-10-17

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Laguardia is the quintessential Riojan hamlet, where honey-colored streets are both cinematic and, around mealtime, enticingly aromatic. This beautifully kept 13th-century fortified town offers a glimpse into the past with its medieval atmosphere, similar to that of walled cities like Carcassonne or Lucca. However, what makes Laguardia extra special is what lies below its cobbled streets. The underground network of approximately 300 caves, many of which are still used to produce and store wine, is larger than the town above. To protect these emmental-like structures, no vehicles are allowed into the center, preserving its historic charm.

Laguardia is a delightful place to visit a winery, enjoy a long lunch, take a leisurely stroll around the town, and explore the tree-lined Paseo del Collado. This scenic walk offers stunning views of the surrounding vineyards and the Sierra de Cantabria, making it perfect for photography enthusiasts. After your walk, savor a coffee in one of the charming squares and soak in the tranquil ambiance.

As a base for exploring the Rioja wine region, Laguardia is ideal. It provides a tranquil alternative to the bustling nearby city of Logroño, allowing you to connect with the true essence of the area. The town’s wineries are renowned for their exceptional wines, and many offer tours and tastings that provide an in-depth look at the winemaking process.

The history of Laguardia is rich and fascinating. The town’s medieval walls and fortifications tell the story of its strategic importance over the centuries. The Church of Santa Maria de los Reyes is a must-see, featuring an intricately carved portal that dates back to the 14th century. Inside, the church houses beautiful altarpieces and artwork that reflect the town’s religious heritage.

Laguardia is also home to the Casa Primicia, the oldest winemaking facility in Rioja. Here, you can learn about the traditional methods of wine production and sample some of the region’s finest wines. The town’s underground cellars, known as "calados," are a unique feature that showcases the ingenuity of its past inhabitants in creating ideal conditions for wine storage.

The town’s festivals and cultural events add to its charm. The Fiestas de San Juan and San Pedro, held in late June, are vibrant celebrations featuring parades, music, and traditional dances. These festivities provide an excellent opportunity to experience local customs and interact with the friendly residents.

For those interested in outdoor activities, the surrounding Sierra de Cantabria mountains offer excellent hiking trails with breathtaking views of the vineyards and valleys. The region’s natural beauty provides a perfect backdrop for exploring on foot or by bike.

Laguardia’s culinary scene is another highlight. The town’s restaurants and tapas bars serve a variety of traditional dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. Be sure to try specialties such as lamb stew, chorizo, and patatas a la riojana, all perfectly paired with a glass of local Rioja wine.

Whether you’re a wine enthusiast, history buff, or simply looking for a peaceful retreat, Laguardia has something to offer everyone. Plan a visit to this enchanting town and discover the many treasures it holds.